I’m tackling Venice via an adapted version of a not always successful management style – Management By Walking/Wandering Around. The theory goes you learn more about what’s happening by being visible, present, and asking questions … and in my experience that’s often true. But it can also lead to one missing big picture items or getting in the way of normal operations.
But that’s neither here nor there. I’m touristing by walking/wandering around and I think that might be exactly the way to “do” Venice. I’ve jealously looked upon folks with the foldout maps but then nod gleefully as they scratch their heads turning the pages this way or that and not doing any better than me. A handheld GPS or wifi that worked would be a godsend but I’m not sure a paper map is entirely useful as back alleys, bridges, and waterways are the norm. On the plus side, I found the canals!
I clearly am staying in the MUNICIPAL city of Venice when all the classic tourist attractions seem to be in the city center/proper. It’s about a ten to fifteen minute bus ride from my hotel to the outskirts of the tourist realm. Not far but far enough, tantamount I suppose to going to NYC and wanting to see a bunch of shows on Broadway but you’re staying in Queens. It’s not bad but it adds to the travel time to get anywhere.
Nonetheless, I navigated the alleys and walkways of Venice, following official looking and some not so official looking signs directing me to San Marcos. This famed square and its iconic bell tower are recreated at Disney’s Epcot Center; for a brief moment I could’ve sworn I was back in The land of the mouse… though it might have been the Disney Store on the street corner.
Ambling around, I gawked at gondoliers, strolled amongst street performers, and just sorta enjoyed the experience of being here. I made only vague plans when leaving for Italy… and the overcast, drizzly sky coupled with blustery 50 degree weather has me ducking in and out of alleys at random to escape the weather conditions.
I did navigate my way to the Grand Teatro de Fenice, the Phoenix Opera House that has risen from the ashes three times since the 1700s. To be fair, the first was a fire sale due to financial mismanagement that led to the Grand Society of Box Seats (THAT’s a secret society ripe for movie villainy!) to build a new one elsewhere. An 1800s fire gutted the building leading to a reconstruction project. A 1996 arson fire would lead to a third life for the Fenice.
It cost 10 euros to tour, plus an extra 3 Euros for a photo pass to allow me to take snapshots. Was it worth it? I’m glad I did it but think it’s a bit overpriced. I did enjoy hearing about the innovative air conditioning that has vents under every seat in the place.
I’m grabbing an overpriced lunch at some hole in the wall establishment. That’s not a dig — seemingly all of Venice consists of hole in the wall places, businesses crammed into whatever nook or cranny available. It’s charmingly chaotic and confusing … but that may be because I have zero schedule today and this don’t care about wrong turns or dead ends at steps leading into the water for gondolas to drop off fares.
In enjoying the overpriced yet huge pizza, I skim the official rule book for the Venice Marathon. I’m sure I read this before because in reading it now I partly know why I booked my hotel near the Mestre rail station — it’s one of two free shuttle stops to the start and finish line of the race. So while I’m still not 100% sure how this is going to work on race day, I do know where the train station is!
Rules like signage are always ripe for making me laugh. As I’ve ruminated when previously posting a sign that tickled my funny bone, it’s fun to imagine what incident prompted the need for a sign or rule to be put in place. In the official rule book there are two things that struck me as funny:
1) “The exact start times will be determined the day before the race, according to TV organization needs.” So basically we start once the latest episode of CSI: Venice finishes.
2) “In their bags, athletes will find 2 personal sponges, they can carry them during the race and soak them using the tanks of running water located along the course every 5 , starting from the 7.5km. Athletes can find additional sponges at the start line but none will be available at the sponging stations.” Somebody decided two was the right average sponge need, but allowances have been made for adjustments at the start. But no sponges along the course. There’s a solid rationale here involving allocation of resources but it still all feels so formal when discussing sponges.
Speaking of rules, here’s a choice prohibition at San Marcos Square —
Venice City Police Regulations forbid “walking around the city bare-cheated or inadequately dressed.”
Tomorrow I head to the expo … and if the forecast is true, I may return here to try for some pics in the sunlight.
Meanwhile, here’s a few choice shots from the water taxi / ferry I took to get back to my bus stop.
One final aside – it was a good thing I did those concentric circles yesterday out from my hotel. I was able to get off the bus and navigate my way back by recognizing such “landmarks” as Ass Autos.
