October 5, 2017 – In Bruges 3: The Final Shots

7:44 AM:

It’s a blustery day. It had been a blustery night. The wind whipped past my attic skylight window, rattling the bones of the house… and me to a certain degree. I had just watched “A Ghost Story,” a meditation on grief, loss, and the paranormal set within a house that creaked and spoke for those that could not. With sparse dialogue and a sound design David Lynch would love, it was a moody, contemplative piece that I’m not sure I enjoyed. But the sounds of it made an impression, such that the wind shaking the fibers of this Belgian home had an added impact.

The forecast calls for rain today in the morning and I’m contemplating a visit to the Old Flemish Masters museum, where there’s art work that I know little about but should probably see given that I’m here. I’m hoping it clears up in the afternoon as I thought I might pay the damn 10 euros and climb the belfry after all.

And no it’s not because I just realized my next stop Croatia ISN’T in the EU and thus doesn’t use the Euro. But I will admit I am glad I didn’t head to an ATM last night to replenish my cash given that tomorrow I’ll need to withdraw some Croatian Kuna (roughly 6.25 HRK to a dollar).

***

6:14 PM

It’s been a strange day. The morning was blustery, chilly, grey, and at times rainy. By the afternoon the rain had given way to warmer temperatures and a partly cloudy day; when the sun often broke through it created the Robert James Waller “god light” of Madison County.

I spent the early, dreary part of the day gazing upon primitive Flemish masters in the Groeningemuseum. (Note: This is NOT the museum dedicated to The Simpsons and Life in Hell creator Matt Groening).  The oil work was amazing to be sure, but the subjects ran a little too religious for my tastes. And once again the ones I liked best weren’t on offer in the gift shop in post card form; I must have unpopular tastes.

***

I wouldn’t say I loved these, but I am fascinated.  They are a two-fer.  A portrait of a young girl and a portrait of a lady.  Unless the girl’s name is Benjamina Button, she should take issue with her portrait.

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They had several sketches and preliminary drawings for Joseph Docq’s “The Return of Scipio’s Son.”  I prefer the preliminary sketches to the final piece to be honest.

 

The big selling point at the place though was Jan Van Eyck’s Madonna with Canon Joris van der Paele

La Madone au Chanoine Van der Paele

– (By Jan Van Eyck [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons)

This painting would also serve as the framing device for the Historium, a multimedia movie and seven room recreation of a day in 1435. The plot has a young gopher/PA of Van Eyck’s sent to collect a girl and parrot who will model for the aforementioned painting… only he loses them in the hustle and bustle of medieval Bruges. The narrative has him wandering dramatically through town and encountering typical denizens of the time to try and find her; he ultimately does though more through deus ex machina than actual efforts on his part. It’s a technically intriguing if problematic production… and the logo makes it seem like a theme park ride based on The Handmaid’s Tale.

 

Hey, look!  Now I’m “IN” the Van Eyck painting…

I wandered the streets of Bruge mainly to get some mileage in via sightseeing as I haven’t been running… and the Zagreb Marathon is in a few days.

Windmills, canals, and a revisit to the Begijnhof, the self-sufficient “nunnery” of Bruges that was a mini-city unto itself (it even had its own brewery). Nuns and a few local women still live there today. I was a fan as it afforded sanctuary to all who crossed the border, provided they left their weapons at the seal.

    

And as the sun was out I decided it was time to plunk down my 10 euros (it was 5 euros in 2008 according to In Bruges) to climb the Belfry. Three hundred and sixty-six steps to the top, a windy, twisty, narrow staircase with an occasional rope strap to hold onto as a “handrail.” Way more precarious than my Airbnb’s stairs! Ultimately I was glad I went though feel the price is a bit steep… not surprising given the stairs, eh?

***

I’m feeling weird myself. A mood that matches the weather. I feel like I’ve forgotten or messed up something. I know I have but I can’t quite seem to place what exactly is amiss. It’s a vibe I’ve got. I guess eventually the truth will out.  It usually does.

Meantime, I’m packing up for Croatia. They just sent me an email about the race.

There is no English in it. I’m a little worried.

Ray: I can hardly do English. (pause) That’s the one thing I like about Europe, though. You don’t have to learn any of their languages.
–In Bruges (2008)